Fashion is moving so fast. With live streaming of the runway shows and immediate posting of looks on the social networks, we could think that it is easy to observe every trend and see designers work, but it has never been so difficult to retain attention, create meaningful content or to design good collection. As soon as we see something, we say “next!” That kind of attitude and the way of consuming information stroked back at fashion. Once, fashion strove for perfection in form and visual aspect. We had beautiful and elegant clothes designed by Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Armani, Valentino, Oscar de la Renta, Alber Elbaz… worn by the most glamorous and sophisticated women. Today, it is hard to decode fashion. Many fashion houses lost their identities or, in other words, they reinvented themselves by giving creative direction mostly to young designers that can better communicate with younger buyers. You can just see the trace of grand masters. Now, we want more raw look, we are magnifying flaws, we want to be different and accepted for our imperfections. I can’t help but wonder is this honest expression of the fashion industry or just its strategy for the survival? But, we are still here! Fashion is still our pulse and we wait to see what Karl has created, what Vaccarello will present for Saint Laurent, and Demna Gvasalia for Balanciaga, or how will Raf Simons bring back to life Calvin Klein … Deconstruction is “hot” thing in fashion as much as broad shoulder pads… Yes, we are back in the 80s, Grace Jones is again on my playlist and my long crystal earrings sparkle as disco ball.
Strange, he shadows me back home,
Footsteps echo on the stones,
Rainy nights, on Hausmann Boulevard,
Parisian music drifting from the bars
Saint Laurent Spring 2017
What I liked this year, except that Karl Lagerfeld took us to Mars and to Germany, was that colors are back – purple, fuchsia, intense green… This part sounds exciting. Maria Grazia Chiuri brought interesting approach to Dior‘s collections – “Wild Wild West” theme for the cruise collection, with sheer dresses and general empowering message to women- “We should all be feminist!“ Why not?! She also designed perfect denim jumpsuits and made all girls around the world wanting to add that French flair and put chic beret on the head. One more interesting concept in fashion came from Demna Gvasalia and his edgy and minimal sock boot trend and luxury shopping bags. Anthony Vaccarello also designed the most wanting sparkling boots of the season. Oh, to not forget Gucci. Well, Alessandro Michele created his own fairy tale. There is complete Gucci world, at which helm is the “villain” and the brand’s ambassador Jared Letto, who is probably the most daring man in fashion right now. Connecting his appearance with his band “30 seconds to Mars“, I think he wants to present to his fans a visual experience as we have seen on Bowie back in the 70s and 80s. Gucci also created an exciting fashion app, and if you are serious fashionista, you can’t go in 2018 if you don’t “Guccify yourself.” This fashion house reminds us that fashion should be fun, and one more proof to that claim is the last year’s collaboration with Trevor “Trouble” Andrew. This daring artist painted on bags his now-signature “REAL LOVE” logo above Gucci‘s own, as well as the iconic double “G” and, of course, ghosts. Trevor also collaborated with The Rolling Stones by re-imagining their logo for the “No Filter Tour.”
Dior Fall 2017; Photo: Kevin Tachman
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Gucci Cruise 2018; Photo: Courtesy of Gucci
Donatella Versace chose to stage her Spring 2018 show at Milan’s Triennele museum as a tribute to Gianni Versace’s inspirations and creations, to celebrate “a genius …an icon…my brother.” She used references – the key prints and pieces from the years 1991-95, the period known for some of Gianni’s most iconic collections. We all enjoyed ecstatic catwalk moment, seeing together again Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen, Claudia Schieffer, Naomi Campbell and Carla Bruni wearing long gold metal mesh dresses that reference back from Gianni Versace Fall/Winter 1994 collection. But, one person was missing, the legendary male supermodel Marcus Schenkenberg, the face of many Gianni Versace‘s ad campaigns and runway star of the 90s, so we decided to reach him and do an interview.
Versace Spring 2018
On the 8th September one fashion story ended with the death of Pierre Bergé, the co-founder of the Yves Saint Laurent‘s eponymous brand. He transformed the French fashion, he believed in the power of creativity, and that art, fashion and culture could change lives and the way we live. Two museums dedicated to Yves Saint Laurent opened their doors to the public in Paris and Marrakech in October. Like we could sense it, we went this summer to Morocco to discover Yves’ Marrakech, his ultimate inspiration. We wanted to learn about the culture and design that influenced his work. We visited his museum, Jardin Majorelle and we even stayed at La Mamounia, the hotel that he and Pierre first visited back in 1966 when they came to this mysterious and exotic city for the first time. After one week, they decided to buy a home in the Medina. After one week, we were sure that we will come back. The couple nurtured the Jardin Majorelle into its current state, opening the nation’s first Berber museum, creating an attraction which draws almost 700,000 visitors per year. It’s a debt the city has repaid by naming the adjacent road after the late fashion designer. Upon his death in 2008, his ashes were scattered at his Moroccan garden.
On the 20th November the fashion community poured out tributes to Azzedine Alaïa, an iconic couturier of the modern era whose designs defined 80s fashion, following his death in Paris at age 77. He loved designing for the female form, constructing his garments directly on the body. Alaïa preferred to reveal his work when he thought it is ready, as opposed to when retailers or the press demanded it. He dedicated his life to the belief that fashion was more than just garments; to him, they were as much an element in the empowerment of women and of a broader cultural conversation.
This year I will also remember by the imaginative work of Kim Keever, with whom we talked in an exclusive interview. His abstract photographs represent a real explosion of colors. This New York based artist pours paint into water and creates dreamy landscapes that he quickly captures with a large-format camera. Paint moves in the mysterious ways forming clouds, blossom and surreal shapes with unexpected compositions that can hardly be achieved twice.
With the exhibition “Christian Dior, couturier du rêve”, the most celebrated French fashion House celebrates its seventieth anniversary by bringing together the work of all of its Creative Directors, from Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, to Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri, as well as enigmatic fragrances such as Miss Dior and J’adore. The exhibition will run to 7 January 2018, so this is your last chance to discover the universe of the iconic fashion house.
Analyzing the changes in fashion and art we still manage to abstract the things we like, that inspire us, move us and hopefully we give back something meaningful to you, our readers. We are excited for 2018, we have high hopes and we continue to walk this path by looking at the stars.