First a flash of brilliance and then the dark – polarities of light shine through Lucia Pica’s powerful beauty creations for the Cruise 2019 Collection. This second chapter of her homage to contemporary East Asia is shaped by Pica’s quest for the undiscovered optical treasures to be found along the road less traveled. Fixing her insatiable gaze on everyday details photographed on the streets of Tokyo and Seoul, then isolating and elevating their raw energy and abstract pictorial qualities, Lucia has unlocked an entirely fresh approach to defining the features using light itself.
“I wanted to capture the sensation of being in East Asia; the atmosphere there practically makes you vibrate,” Pica explains. “It’s only once I get the photos developed that I have a true sense of the collection and that it’s so obvious which elements of each image will inspire a particular product. So this is a slightly edgier Cruise Collection, about subtle contouring.”
In Vision d’Asie : Lumière et Contraste, no need to be heavy-handed with luminous shades, satin textures are used to softly sculpt the complexion. True to her love of contrasts, Lucia teams these shades and textures with intriguing high-gloss accents on the eyes and lips for a spectacular effect. Delicately shaping the face begins with the first of the collection’s exclusive creations, Duo Bronze et Lumière, a sophisticated pairing of matte bronzer with a pearlescent highlighter that delicately accentuates contours whilst also mattifying the skin. The matte pink warmth of Rouge Coco Flash lends a lustrous glow to the lips for effortless Summer beauty.
A thrilling new duo for the eyes brings definition and drama as deep color layering is teamed with incandescent flickers of gloss. Shimmering Ombre et Contour pens line the lids or blend into smoky, metallic bases with the rosy beige, caramel, bronze and platinum shades of Les 4 Ombres. The matte and metallic surfaces of the palette are embossed with the iconic Chanel logo, confirming its place as Lumière et Contraste’s other exclusive creation. Next, Ombre Première Gloss adds a blaze of modernity – a translucent slick of silver or dark gold gloss. As Pica says, “It’s quite a statement to have gloss on the eyes in summer.”
Such daring moments are key to Pica’s act of elevating light-versus-dark into something more nuanced and unexpected. “At the moment, the color brings the shade in,” she says, “the gloss projects the light outwards.” And glamour lies between them both.
Lucia Pica on Vision d’Asie : Lumière et Contraste
Ease of application is central to every one of Pica’s beauty statements for Chanel. In the Cruise 2019 Collection, there are sophisticated textures and colors, but the emphasis on contrasts and layering ensures that carefree experimentation always stays in play.
“I want to let go without looking plain in summer which, in makeup, is usually the relaxed season,” Pica explains. “But Lumière et Contraste needn’t be difficult – this is still something you can apply with your fingers.”
Strong exclusive creations offering effortless skin preparation and provocative new formulations, such as the gloss, have created a characterful Cruise Collection that places sensuality and practicality at the fore.
“With a lipstick and a gloss, you can create a special effect every quickly,” Pica says. “You feel glamorous quickly, without needing to make much effort. This is easy glamour.”
The atmospheric light of East Asia inspires a Cruise 2019 Collection whose intensity lies in the contrast between subtle contouring and high-gloss accents.
“The woman who wears this collection is interested in the subtleties of things, things that take longer to discover,” Pica says.
Vision d’Asie : Lumière et Contraste does not focus on shading but rather on luminosity, as shown by the collection’s exclusive creation Duo Bronze et Lumière which lends its peachy-beige and golden chocolate tones for a lightly structured, Summer face.
“Instead of heavy contouring with the use of bronzers, these powders mattify and highlight, resulting in a paler, lighter finish,” Pica says.
Contouring around the eyes is among Cruise 2019 Collection’s most daring elements. Matched with flashes of gloss, this creates an audacious look inspired by the mysterious blurs and abstractions of Pica’s pictures of East Asia. Application comes in two parts: depth and definition is created from cream shades; color and highlights are achieved with the powders and gloss.
“Stylo Ombre et Contour can be used to line inside and outside the lashes, or blended for a smoky eye look,” Pica says. “The pens are easy and effective while their colors are muted and surprising. The two matte and two shimmery colors of Les 4 Ombres work well with Stylo Ombre et Contour, there is real softness in the colors. It isn’t an ordinary eyeshadow palette.”
A slick of gloss on the eyes – whether a highlight in the center of the lid, a full gleaming socket or applied right up to the brow – introduces an audacious architectural, futuristic feel. Try it with a cool, oyster-silver or gold to maximize color-layering intensity.
“I’m very fond of gloss for the eyes,” Pica says. “And the translucency of Ombre Première Gloss creates an incredibly sophisticated result. I adore textures merging with one another.”
Les 4 Ombres Lumières Naturelles: a light rosy beige, a satiny bronze, a bronze platinum, a light caramel
Two elegant lip shades reflect the range of Pica’s East Asian image inspiration with the rosy beige and dusty pink of Rouge Coco Flash. These shades leave a dewy luster that confers wellness that is unique to this Summer look.
“Both Rouge Coco Flash and the glossier Rouge Coco Gloss highlight the lips while bringing depth to the eyes,” Pica adds.
And how would any excursion to Japan and South Korea be complete without a memento of something strange and exotic to the Western eye? The final keepsake is a trio of Le Vernis.
Photos: courtesy of Chanel