Alexander McQueen Pre-Spring 2019 collection is inspired by Victoriana. Mary Anning and a conchologist’s cabinet of curiosities. Pearls, coral, seashells and jewels found scattered across the wild English shoreline and recorded in exquisite detail. Forgotten treasures: a trousseau of delicate découpage dresses featuring white ribbon work, mother-of pearl sequins, precious silver jacquard silks, scalloped broderie anglaise, and trailing wildflowers and ferns. A pioneering traveller’s passion for natural beauty and the bringing home of images of landscapes rich with exotic blossom and birds. Japanese screens.
A turn-of-the-Twentieth Century silhouette is executed with a collector’s eye and obsession for rare detail and fine craftsmanship: Victorian puffed sleeves are deconstructed with seams and canvases exposed, tailoring, high necklines and corseted waists appear throughout.
Alexander McQueen Pre-Spring 2019 collection’s selection of fabrics comprise silk jacquards, washed silk chiffon and tulle, scalloped Sarabande and Lyon lace, wool silk, tweed, cotton poplin and piquet. Colors that dominate the collection are the bone color, oyster, nacre, anemone pink, lilac, eau de nil, lust red, ink blue, seashell pink, and black.
Soft foulard leather trompe l’oeil jackets are layered over featherweight knitted mesh dresses or motorcross trousers. Plongé leather coats, jackets and draped, ruffled dresses are edged with graphic broderie anglaise embroidery. Signature tailoring, cut in wool silk and at times traced with scalloped lace, has a neat, square or deconstructed draped shoulder with split sleeve details and is worn with silk tulle peplum blouses and kickback tuxedo trousers.
A hybrid coat bonds classic wool silk tailoring to trench gabardine. More jackets in tonal silk shell jacquards are pieced and patched and finished with jet fern embroideries.Softly draped cotton poplin dresses with broderie anglaise panelling and trims are screen printed with forget-me-nots and cornflowers using hand-engraved cylinders.
Black leather corsets harness cotton shirtwaisters with ruffled hems in patchworked florals. Cashmere cable knit sweaters, slashed and interwoven with silver metal chains, are layered over wayside flower mini dresses. Graphic midi dresses comprise tiers of floral prints and pure white cotton guipure lace and are cinched with peplum belts. Fine knitted dresses have laddered Lurex hems.
Trench coats in a découpage of tonal black silk taffeta jacquards, scattered with seashells and coral, have draped shell sleeves. Abstracted tailored frock coats and jackets in wool silk are panelled with lace, silk taffeta jacquards, point d’esprit tulle and jet fern and rose embroideries. Pieced and patched ribbon work cotton tulle embroidered dresses with ruffle details trace the curves of the body. Embroidered ankle-length dresses feature silver diamanté wave embroidery on organza ruffles. Translucent sequin wave dresses with tiered, ruffled skirts are reminiscent of underwater mother-of-pearl and oyster shells. Lace gowns with scalloped necklines are waisted with leather corset belts. Evening dresses are hand-embroidered with blossom, birds and landscapes evocative of far away lands. Venus goddess corsets and more evening dresses in undulating hand-cut oyster ruffles or washed organza echo the forms of seashells: scenes of shipwreck; treasure washed ashore.
Bags: the Jewelled Satchel is introduced in a new smaller version, finished, like the original, with a half chain leather strap and the skull rings familiar to heritage evening clutches. New this season, the Biker Zip bag, in black and white grainy leather, is inspired by signature patched motorcross jackets. The Bucket Bag, inspired by treasure chests, heraldic crests and origami folding techniques, comes in two new styles: a reduced size and a cross body camera bag. The Pin bag with new crystal colorways is inspired by a fascination for the natural world.
Shoes: signature pointed toe, mid-calf height boots in shiny spazzolato leather with metal zips have elastic or nappa leather panelling in both tonal and contrast colors for a super tight fit. Classic details include leather covered buttons and a front flap. A ‘needle’ heel made out of steel is introduced in two heights: 105mm and 65mm. Boots are studded or embroidered to mirror garments and, for evening, uppers are soft, knitted and embellished with sequins, crystals and satin stitch thread work.
Jewellery: chokers are threaded with freshwater river pearls, hand-cut white labradorite and facetted mother-of-pearl. Seasonal charms on chokers and bracelets include metal clams, crystal in blush rose or tanzanite shades, baroque pearls with leafy jewelled caps and pavé crystal skulls. Leather chokers and cuffs are embellished with signature crystal encrusted spiders, beetles and butterflies set in clear resin to echo the process of preserving rare insects. Earrings, brooches and rings feature larger, jewel encrusted insects. Oyster shells in bi-color antique gold and silver metal, hold a blush rose crystal and large baroque pearl and are suspended from delicate beaded chains.
Photos: courtesy of Alexander McQueen